Does the
hood really need to be removed to put your liner on?
Yes, it
does, it's virtually impossible and at the very least difficult to install my
aircraft firewall material hoodliner with the hood still on the car.
How does it
attach? Can I just use the plastic push pins?
It's
attached to the hood with 3M #80 spray adhesive. Using the plastic push pins
alone is not recommended because the liner will sag in areas not held in by the
tabs. The holes are punched on the liner and serve two purposes: 1) to ensure
as you install the liner that you are installing the liner correctly. The holes
line up with the holes in the underhood for the plastic pins indicating it's
correctly aligned. 2) Once the liner is installed you can insert the plastic
pins to complete the "stock look". The liner will "grab"
the pins and they'll seat well.
Do you sell
the pins or the 3M #80 spray adhesive?
No, I don't,
you can clean and re-use the original pins if you have them. If not, you can
find them at any good auto parts stores or even the U-Pull junkyard. The
adhesive is found only at the Home Depot, in the paint department. Other stores
like Lowes do not carry the #80 adhesive. It's not a good idea for me to send
the adhesive in the box with your new liner since it may travel in the cargo
hold of an airplane and the can may burst during flight.
I can't find
3M #80 spray adhesive, but I see other 3M numbers like 75, 77, and 90. Can't I
just use those?
No, #80 is
most closely formulated for the type of material my liners are made of, plus its
heat rated to 200 degrees. Other adhesive numbers such as 75, 77, and 90 are
made for other chemical materials and have lower heat ratings. Someone used 77
on their liner and it came unglued - the result was a liner laying on top of
the engine. Luckily nothing happened to the liner or the engine, and the result
was a quick sanding of the underhood with a 3M sanding sponge to remove the
now-dried 77 adhesives, and a re-installation using the correct #80. The owner
reported much better results! If you can't locate 3M #80 at all, then the
suggestion is to use a spray or even a liquid adhesive that can be brushed on,
such as contact cement, as long as it's made for rubber/vinyl, and is heat
rated for 180 to 200+ degrees. The liner is neither rubber nor vinyl, and it
does have components of neoprene.
Why is your
hood liner better than the stock one?
My hoodliner
is INFINITELY better than the stock pressed fiberglass. My hood liner is fire
retardant, insulates against heat and sound, resistant to oil, chemicals, water
and mildew and will not rot. It's washable and comes with a colorful decal. The
original liner, made from fiberglass latex foam, is not fire retardant, and
somewhat insulates against heat and sound. The original liner is not resistant
to oil, chemicals, water and mildew and it will get very dirty, greasy, will
rot and come apart. My liner gives a better appearance than the stock foam
hoodliner. On top of all that, let's say you can locate an NOS original liner.
Sure, you can install that NOS original without removing the hood - just pop
the pins in and you're done in five minutes or so. BUT, give it time and that
NOS original will get dirty again just like the first one did because that
original pressed fiberglass material is a magnet for dirt, grease, etc., and it
will fall apart just like your first one did. Mine won't. Now, compare the
price between mine and that NOS original - and that's IF you can find that NOS
original. You will spend more on that NOS original than mine. And that NOS will
fail again, and you lost that money! For instance, the price of an NOS original
liner for the Buick Grand National is astronomical! Check the 'Bay and see for
yourself! I've seen some over $350, plus $150 or more in oversized shipping!
Why? That's ridiculous and insane! My liners make better sense!
I have an
aftermarket hood; can you make me a liner?
Although my
liners are mainly for stock hoods, I have made liners for aftermarket hoods
before. What I would need to know is what size you need covered and I could
send you a section of the liner material in those dimensions, width x height.
You would then need to trim-to-fit using an X-Acto knife or a utility knife,
rounding out the corners, making any curves, and any openings for airflow. A
heat-resistant decal would come with the liner section as well. Simply let me
know how much you need, and I can send a PayPal invoice your way to the e-mail
address you specify. You would of course still need to attach it to your
underhood with the 3M #80 spray adhesive.
I see the
picture of the grey 2006 Mustang GT and it has a trunk liner, yet you don't
mention these at all. Can you make trunk lid liners?
Yes, same idea as the
aftermarket hoods as I don't have templates for them. The 2006 GT lid liner
sent was 48" x 24" and cost $50. The 2005 to 2009 Mustangs would have
the same dimensions for the trunk lids, and you'd get that liner material in
that size. You will then need to trim-to-fit using an X-Acto knife.
Can the
liner and decal hold up to the engine heat?
Yes, the aircraft firewall material
is heat-rated to over 225 degrees Fahrenheit, 108 degrees Celsius. The vinyl
decal is heat resistant as well and won't be affected. In fact, I know of two
instances where engine heater hoses burst and sprayed hot coolant/anti-freeze
onto the liner and decal. Both were totally UNSCATHED, and nothing happened!
The liners were cleaned off leaving no stains, and no change in performance.
Remember that this liner doesn't absorb any underhood fluids or lubricants.
Cool
looking, but after reading the description, I think this hood liner will NOT do
what it is intended to do - - fall down and smother an engine fire. It seems
like it's made of a flammable material, which would only burn more. There's a
reason the stock hood liner is designed the way it is. It seems this one is
just designed to look nice.
Sorry, but
you DID NOT read the description, or you didn't pay attention! The liner
material is fabricated so that IT CAN take the heat underneath. ALSO: the
factory hood liner IS NOT intended to smother and put out a fire - that is a
complete myth, totally false. The stock liner will burn like dry tinder! It's
not designed to fall down on top of the engine to smother a fire. If a car ever
burns that way and is fully engulfed and involved in flames, there's no way
you're going to salvage it! Car engineers around the world put the hood
insulation liner there strictly for noise suppression and somewhat for paint
protection. That misconception about the liner smothering an engine fire is
TOTALLY FALSE, yet it keeps popping up in car forums all over the internet.
I've seen
reproduction liners all over the internet, some are inexpensive. I've even
found an NOS hoodliner for my car that I can put on without taking my hood off
and using glue. What makes your hoodliner better than those?
Think about
what those reproduction hoodliners are made of. Many are made from thick gray
or yellow fiberglass that's better suited for putting in between drywall like
that R-12 or R-13 stuff you would find at Home Depot or Lowes! Brand new, right
out of the bag that stuff loosens fiber and dust particles before it's even
mounted on a hood. Car owners really want that very inferior stuff over their
clean engines. One seller even wrote on his description on that very famous
auction site: "be careful when you install this insulation that it doesn't
brush on your skin. Wear gloves and long sleeves to keep the fiberglass from
irritating your skin". Come on! It deteriorates and gets dirty faster than
the NOS liner! Speaking of the NOS liner yes you can mount it on your hood with
the push pins in about 5 to 10 minutes and be done with it. But give it time
and it will fall apart and get dirty just like your original one did. How much
did you pay for your reproduction or NOS liner? You’re right back where you
started with a dirty hood liner. You can't put decals on the NOS or the
reproduction liner either, they won't stay on. There simply is no comparison
with the NOS or other fiberglass liners against mine, the liners I offer are
designed to stay on for the life of your car.
How come you
no longer provide any Ford or GM decals? What happened?
I am unable
to provide any Ford, Lincoln-Mercury logos or decals for my hoodliners, the
same goes for all General Motors brands. I know the decals make my hoodliners
stand out but unfortunately, I can no longer provide Ford or GM decals. I can
do custom logos and text, that's pretty much it, as long as it's not any
official Ford or GM logo coming from me. You can
still put a decal on your liner, but of course you'd have to source that
yourself from an authorized Ford or GM licensed retailer. If you do, ensure
that the decal is at least 3.0 mil thick and made of "calendared"
vinyl. Both of these specs will perform well on the liner! Remember
that you want to replace your original failing stock hood liner insulation,
mine are the perfect solution. The decal is only the "icing" and can
be purchased from a licensed source.
Why don’t I see
my car for hoodliners to be made? What can be done so that I have one?
The list on
the inventory is what I have. Those are the only templates I have. If you
really would like a hoodliner I would need you to do the following. Contact me
first about the situation via email/ phone call/ text message/ WhatsApp, and
then take the original hoodliner you have on your car (or if its super deteriorated,
go to a junk yard and find the exact same car and find that hoodliner in a good
condition) and buy a shower curtain from the dollar tree and trace it out
exactly. The same size, same dimensions, and any holes for the pegs/
indentations there may be on the liner. I would need to know all of the
specifics of the car so that you could help me help other interested buyers if
they want the same kind of liner!
Why your
hoodliners?
Keep in mind
that if you were to find factory hoodliners/insulation pads they would run
anywhere from $100 or MORE depending on model year and availability. That's IF
they are available - they readily aren't, not at the dealerships' parts
departments - they have to order them, and they're made of the same stock
pressed fiberglass! Most of the original hood insulation pads have been
discontinued from the factory and are difficult if not impossible to locate!
Even if you did find one get ready to pay oversized shipping! Guess what?
They're made of the original inferior material. They wouldn't have the same
quality as mine and will become dirty and rot with time - bringing you right
back to square one! Which means you waste your money on that original material
liner. Plus, you'd be paying MORE than what I charge for my liner and you'd be
getting an INFERIOR product and paying oversized shipping!!
MORE FAQs
COMING SOON!
